Right now, the fridge is plugged into an outlet in the cabinet above the fridge instead of the one I would have expected halfway up the wall behind the fridge.

What is the real risk - can I damage my fancy fridge if I plug in the wrong type of device to one of the wall outlets?Īlso, not sure what is going on with the wiring - the outlets are GFCI and testing trips the other outlets, but not the fridge outlet - does this play into the logic of the way they connected the fridge?Īdditional Info: I think there actually is a dedicated outlet behind the fridge based on what I saw during construction. I would like to better understand what the diff is between a sub zero and other refrigerators that actually make this more important than regular fridges. something about the power draw or other specs of the sub zero fridge override the normal conditions that wouldn't require a dedicated circuit? Is there anything actually in the NEC code that I can use to force them to actually put the fridge on a dedicated circuit? e.g. I read that some inspectors will force compliance with manufacturer requirements (e.g., if Sub Zero says you need dedicated, then it has to be dedicated to pass), but it's not a given. circuit is needed unless the fridge is a sub zero, then make it a 20a circ' and more recently here here. This seems consistent with other research, except for when people are talking about Sub Zero e.g., from 2002 ' Also, no sep. It seems that in general NEC codes does NOT require a dedicated circuit as discussed in this post. Sub Zero requires a dedicated circuit per their documentation and FAQ:Īll Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Cove appliances require a dedicated electrical circuit. I found that the fridge is not wired on a dedicated circuit, but is on one shared with outlets above the counter. The home came with a sub-zero refrigerator. I have just moved into a new construction home.

Installing a sub zero refrigerator